As Gina and I occupied ourselves on our electronic devices at the airport in Dublin, I was anxiously waiting for the flight to Edinburgh. I had the same feeling, waiting on the flight to Dublin from England. The feeling of knowing a vacation is not over. That you are leaving one international destination for another, instead of heading home to New Jersey. Edinburgh, Scotland would be the final stop on our little less than two-week, whirlwind tour through the UK.
We sat not knowing what gate we would be leaving from. One good thing about the airport was the free wi-fi. It made the wait a little easier. Once they announced our gate we headed right for another seat. Our gate was the last one in the terminal. The walk felt like it put us out on the runway. Even on the outskirts there was still a little place open for coffee, sandwiches, etc. I could not sit. I kept my Lowepro on my back and stood waiting. My eyes were fixated on the monitor, viewing our departure and arrival cities.
I was excited to move on to Scotland. Looking forward to the flight over on Aer Lingus to see another coastline from the air. I enjoyed the constant traveling we had been doing the past several weeks. Two weeks before being in London we were in Orlando, Florida. Looking ahead to another new locale made me grin, just a little. As soon as they announced boarding, Gina and I were first in line. We walked right down the tarmac and walked on over to the plane. Nice little route laid out for us to view our little propeller beauty in all its glory. Not the first time on a flight like this. I like the smaller craft.
We boarded the plane from the rear and informed it was open seating. In other words, you could sit wherever you wanted. Gina and I still opted to sit in our assigned seats. A few passengers could not handle the fact it was open seating. SOme were confused, others who came in later found themselves scrounging for an open seat. In the end, not much of a hassle. Everyone was situated and went about business as usual.
It was a very smooth ride over to Scotland. Another hour flight that was seamless. When we landed in Scotland it was raining. There is a shocker. They had a shuttle bus waiting to drive everyone over to the proper arrival gate. We had a nice tour of the airport as we were riding. Once inside it was a small wait for our luggage. All was running smoothly for us to get out as quick as possible. By the time we had our luggage it was not long before we spotted our driver who would take us to our hotel. A quick walk to the awaiting mini van and we were on our way.
Even in the rain we could see the varying shades of green that made up Scotland’s landscape. While conversing with the driver, he pointed out the offices and campus of the Royal Bank of Scotland (RBS). Many of the homes and developments we passed we beautiful. Given the hills and terrain of the areas they sure had some nice sections to live in. The design of some that lined up on roads heading higher up must be outstanding.
As we drive into the heart of Edinburgh we notice Edinburgh Castle towering above Edinburgh, West Princes Street Gardens, and East Princes Street Gardens. Astounding sight to see from a distance. For us, it was very easy to spot. Our hotel was situated in a perfect location to see it. When Gina booked our room, she picked the one room that has a direct view of Edinburgh Castle from one of its windows. This way, no matter when we wanted to look at the castle, we could.
We stayed at The Rutland, which made me laugh every time I said it or thought about it. For those who do not get the reference from first glance, let me share the joke with you. It reminded me of a phony band who became real, The Rutles. The Rutles were created by Eric Idle and Neil Innes for 1970s television programming, became an actual group (while remaining a parody of The Beatles) and toured and recorded, releasing two UK chart hits.
Created as a short sketch in Idle’s UK television comedy series Rutland Weekend Television, the Rutles gained fame after being the focus of the 1978 mockumentary television film, All You Need Is Cash (The Rutles). Encouraged by the reaction to the sketch, featuring Beatles’ music pastiches by Neil Innes, the film was written by Idle, who co-directed it with Gary Weis. It had 20 songs written by Innes, which he performed with three musicians as “The Rutles”. That mockumentary was introduced to me in 1996 by my good friend Paul Jones. I have been a fan of Ron Nasty, Dirk McQuickly, Stig O’Hara, and Barry Wom, otherwise known as the Pre Fab Four, since then.
Any true Beatles fan should check out the film and their albums. The film needs to be watched more than once to get the insane amount of Beatles references written into it. With cameos from John Belushi, Dan Aykroyd, Bill Murray, Gilda Radner, Paul Simon, Mick Jagger, Michael Palin, George Harrison, Bianca Jagger, Ron Wood, and even Lorne Michaels. Highly recommended from so many Beatles fans, it will keep you laughing. Not to mention the music, so beautifully done. George Harrison was involved in the making of the movie.
So as a Rutles fan, staying in the Rutland, made for a fun couple days. I had Tweeted that I was a Rutles fan staying at The Rutland and the employee running The Rutland’s Twitter account retweeted it and responded back. The following morning I met the employee behind their Twitter account. Nice little conversation about the band and film. Love to find fans from different areas that enjoy the same cult classics.
The Rutland is a quaint boutique style hotel located in the West End. A small glass elevator and staircase take you to the two floors that have all the rooms. Under fifteen rooms in this hotel. Our room had a nice luxury king sized bed and like I said, great view of Edinburgh castle. The bathroom had an oddly designed shower. No sliding door, no curtain, no nothing really. Just half a glass wall with the rest of the shower exposed to the rest of the bathroom. Otherwise a nice, relaxing room.
Right next to the hotel in the same building was a steakhouse Kyloe and bar/restaurant called The Huxley. From breakfast to last call, The Huxley serves it all. Both The Huxley and Kyloe share their wi-fi with The Rutland. During peak times and the evening, the bandwidth was quite slow. One can understand how frustrating it can be surfing the web or uploading photos. Gina and I did not let that take away from the trip. If The Rutland really wants to keep their guests happy, they should have separate wi-fi for their hotel guests.
Knowing the weather would not get any better the entire time we were in Edinburgh, we head out into the elements. The rain had let up so it was safe to walk. We walked Princes Street and viewed the old city of Edinburgh on the other side, way past the gardens. We passed some stores we became familiar with in Ireland and England. Then you had your traditional shops for everything Scotland. Reminded me of a Saturday Night Live sketch with Mike Myers portraying a Scottish gift shop owner. The store was called “If It’s Not Scottish, It’s Crap”. Now yell that in a heavy Scottish brogue. Those who saw the sketch will laugh.
When we had enough along Princes Street we decided it was time for our first taste of Scotland, at the Hard Rock Cafe. Any restaurant you can go and not just listen to the music, but watch the videos of hard rockers Foo Fighters and ACDC was worth the bad joke. We were both craving a good burger and decided on the Hard Rock for that craving. Always worth visiting a known spot like the Hard Rock in the different countries they operate. I have been to their locations in New York, Las Vegas, Orlando, Cancun, Hollywood, and missed the one’s in London & Dublin. Shame on me.
We started off with one server, Amy, who brought us our drinks. Having a Hard Rock Iced Tea was a great way to kick back and watch Foo Fighter’s “Walk” amongst some other great rock videos. By the time we received our nachos platter as a starter, we had a new server, Mike. He introduced himself by saying “Hello, I will be your new server, Mike. But if you have any complaints, my name is Amy”. Really funny server. He had no tables, only us for the time being. Every thirty seconds or so he came back with more schtick. We were having fun, it was great.
We devoured the entire plate of nachos. Piled high with sour cream, cheese, guacamole, retried beans, and more. We knew we were hungry. By this time I was working on my second Hard Rock Iced Tea. I wasn’t driving so a second one sounded good. While talking with our server, he mentions we can make recommendations on videos then asked who we liked. I said we were big AC-DC fans. Mile then asks “which one?” I immediately said Bon Scott.
For those casual AC-DC fans, let me explain. Bon Scott was the original lead singer before his death in 1980 and the band moved forward with Brian Johnson. No disrespect to Brian Johnson, I just prefer Bon Scott. Mike put on “It’s A Long Way To The Top (If You Wanna Rock N Roll)”. Mike was an Australian living in Scotland.
It was about time to finally have a burger. The first one the entire trip including England and Ireland. I had what they cal the S.O.B. Burger. Basted with spicy Chipotle Pepper puree and topped with Monterey Jack cheese. Served on a buttered-toasted bun with Hard Rock Guacamole & grilled onions. It had good heat, I am used to a lot hotter. Gina had the Local Legendary. The Legendary burger always has great flavor using local fare. Every country the Hard Rock is in, they have a burger for that country. This one happened to have haggis on it. Honestly, the haggis was delicious.
I always love a great burger, no matter where it is. Hamburgers are a universal food with so many unique ways to enjoy. Too many combinations to think about. Too staggering to go into now. That leaves another story, for another time. After the burgers that was it on food for the day. The Hard Rock satisfied a craving and gave us some laughs. Oh, kick ass hard rock too.
Always good to walk off a big meal afterwards. Lucky for us, we were walking anyway. But before we could turn the corner, Gina started laughing out of nowhere. She told me to look across the street. There on the phone was a gentleman of true Scottish style. Decked out in a tuxedo coat and shirt accompanied by green plaid pants. Not a great pair either, they resembled pajama pants. As long as he thinks he looked good, that is all that mattered. After that highlight we walked back to the hotel.
Many of the businesses closed early, around 6 PM. By 8 PM, many of the shops were already closed for the night. So unless one wanted to go pub hopping, there was not much to really do in the evening. At least in the area we were in. The nightlife is in their pubs and bars. Considering we were heading to Edinburgh Castle in the morning, we decided to rest up for the long day. In Scotland, the sun still provides some light around 10 PM. I was glad we had dark, heavy curtains to keep the light out. The bed was plush, it made for a nice comfortable sleep.
One item of note regarding toilet’s in the UK is their use of water. They are created to conserve water. So flushing turns into an event. A weak push on the button means a weak flush. I approached it like the game show “Press Your Luck”. Hand over the button and then, no Whammies, no Whammies, No Whammies, STOP! Press it right the first time to create the best water flow. Otherwise it was like trying to start a 79 Ford in freezing weather. Get it wrong the first time, and you will keep trying to turn it over.
The next day would be a busy day, filled with a lot of walking. Our first stop was Edinburgh Castle. There is so much to see in the Castle as well as the views of Scotland around it. After the Castle we would be heading for the Scotch Whiskey Experience and tasting. So we had a day of walking and drinking ahead of us, just like every other place we had been over the past week. Why not have the best scotch whiskey experience possible in the land of Scotch whiskey? Before we could get to any of that. We still needed to have breakfast.
We headed downstairs to The Huxley for a bite before heading to Old Edinburgh. Gina ordered an egg sandwich while I had a sausage sandwich. We combined our ingredients so we could have a sausage and egg sandwich which was pretty delicious. After the sandwiches and coffee we were on our way. The day before we had stopped into a great outdoors store, Mountain Warehouse. Great clothes, camping gear, and everything one could want for the ever changing weather of Scotland. Gina picked up a comfortable pair of walking shoes there before we headed for the castle. Best to have cushioned footwear before doing any long distance walking or running.
It was quite a walk just to get to Edinburgh Castle. It was an uphill walk the entire way. Through winding streets & cobblestone roads it was quite the cardio workout. Old town Edinburgh is visually stunning in regards to the architecture and history of the city. As soon as we approached the Castle entrance there was an enormous construction project going on. They were constructing huge bleacher sections for the Edinburgh Festival’s Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. It looks large enough to be an NCAA Division I football stadium.
After waiting on-line to get our tickets, we headed right into the Castle walls. There is so much to see and experience. I am not going into every part of the Castle or even all the museum’s that reside inside. That could be a write-up on its own. I will just provide some highlights. The castle sits high atop the volcanic Castle Rock. A royal castle has been there since at least the reign of David I in the 12th century, and the site continued to be a royal residence until the Union of the Crowns in 1603. From the 15th century the castle’s residential role declined, and by the 17th century its principal role was as a military base with a large garrison.
Its importance as a historic monument was recognized from the 19th century, and various restoration programs have been carried out since. As one of the most important fortresses in the Kingdom of Scotland, Edinburgh Castle was involved in many historical conflicts, from the Wars of Scottish Independence in the 14th century, up to the Jacobite Rising of 1745, and has been besieged, both successfully and unsuccessfully, on several occasions.
Few of the present buildings pre-date the Lang Siege of the 16th century, when the medieval defences were largely destroyed by artillery bombardment. The most notable exceptions are St Margaret’s Chapel, which dates from the early 12th century and is the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh, the Royal Palace, and the earl 16th century Great Hall. The castle also houses the Honours of Scotland, the Scottish National War Memorial, and the National War Museum of Scotland.
Edinburgh Castle is in the care of Historic Scotland, and is Scotland’s most-visited paid tourist attraction, with over 1.3 million visitors in 2011. The British Army is responsible for some parts of the castle, although its presence is largely ceremonial and administrative, including a number of regimental museums. As the backdrop to the annual Edinburgh Military Tattoo it has become a recognisable symbol of Edinburgh and of Scotland.
During the Revolutionary War between England and the US Colonies, US POW’s we prisoned within the Castle walls. They languished alongside other POW’s in hopes that the US Colonies would soon gain victory. Walking through the simulated conditions they slept in, where they ate, and how they lived on a daily basis brought to light a side of the American Revolutionary War one can not see o r visit in the United States.
Knowing what they were fighting for and being taken prisoner over made me proud to be American. Sacrifices were being made for liberty and freedom to make sure we had a future as a country. Many still sacrifice today for the freedoms we enjoy and others for granted, and to them I remove my cap and say “Thank you”.
In the middle of all this history we needed a little energy boost. With all the walking, stairs, and varying inclines some food was needed to press on. Inside the Red Coat Cafe was a full working kitchen. Not just some pre-made sandwiches and drinks, but a dining experience . The kitchen prepared hot meals, sandwiches, salads, and more. Some nice biscuits, scones, cakes, and other baked goods. They did have a refrigerated case with drinks, salads, and some other pre-packaged items from the kitchen. Gina and I split a smoked salmon, cream cheese, and cucumber sandwich on wheat bread.
When it came to coffee, they had a full barista set up. No choices of coffee made in the back and brought upfront. Two barista’s preparing fresh coffee, tea, latte’s, cappuccino’s and other notable favorites. No paper plates here either. Real plates, silverware, full tea sets, and everything else as if you brought it from your kitchen cabinet. It was a great set up for a museum cafe. We had a few coffee Americano’s. After taking a seat with a great view of Edinburgh and some shoreline it was time to dig in.
I took this time to take out my portable charger and charge my iPhone. I had been taking photos and video every five seconds. Along with my camera equipment, I like to carry anything tech that can keep any devices powered. On any trip, you need alternative power sources through out the day if you are not near electrical outlets. In between the charging of devices, the sandwich was pretty good. I never had cucumber on a sandwich before but it seemed to be the norm in the UK. I love my smoked salmon and cream cheese. I would prefer it on a bagel, just my preference. The smoked salmon was not too salty, it made the sandwich a little more flavorful while not having to taste salt in every bite.
After our little break we still had so much more to see. Between the museums, the towers, battery’s, memorials, and prisons we had information overload. There was even an exhibit on The Honours of Scotland. Also known as the Scottish regalia and the Scottish Crown Jewels. Dating from the 15th & 16th centuries, are the oldest set of crown jewels in the British Isles. The existing set was used for the coronation of Scottish monarchs from 1543 (Mary I) to 1651 (Charles II). Since then, they have been used to represent Royal Assent to legislation in both the Parliament of Scotland and Scottish Parliament, and have also been used at State occasions, including the first visit to Scotland as sovereign by King George IV in 1822 and the first visit to Scotland as sovereign by Queen Elizabeth in 1953.
There are three primary elements of the Honours of Scotland: the Crown, the Sceptre, and the Sword of State. These three elements also appear upon the crest of the royal coat of arms of Scotland and on the Scottish version of the royal coat of arms of the United Kingdom, where the red lion of the King of Scots is depicted wearing the Crown and holding both the Sword and the Sceptre.
The Honours have had a rather turbulent history. They were first used together to crown the infant Mary Queen of Scots at Stirling Castle in 1543 and were then used at the coronations of James VI in 1567, Charles I in 1633 and, the last sovereign to receive the Honours, Charles II in 1651.
These priceless objects were hastily hidden in the mid 17th century to avoid being destroyed as their English crown jewels had been at the hands of Oliver Cromwell. First they were taken to Dunnottar Castle in Aberdeenshire, from where they were smuggled out during a siege and then buried a few miles away in Kinneff parish church for nine years until the restoration of the monarchy in 1660.
After the Treaty of Union in 1707 removed Scotland’s independent parliament, the Honours of Scotland were considered redundant and were duly locked away in a chest in Edinburgh Castle, where they were literally forgotten about for the next hundred or so years. They did not come to light again until 1818 when, under pressure from Sir Walter Scott, a detailed search of the castle uncovered the box and they were discovered. They were hidden once again during the Second World War for fear of a Nazi invasion and have in total been buried three times. Together with the Stone of Destiny, these symbols of Scottish nationhood are on permanent public display at Edinburgh Castle.
The castle has become a recognisable symbol of Edinburgh, and of Scotland. Their rich history intertwined with those who set foot on their soil to only turn back and leave Scotland to its own people. Although the British Crown still looms overhead, the residents of Scotland will have their day to reside in a country free of the British Crown. One can sense the pride the Scottish have in the Castle and the history it contains. Gina and I took in a wealth of that pride and knowledge the more we learned about it’s history and those who occupied the castle over the ages.
After spending several hours wandering through Edinburgh Castle, we decided to move on to our next stop, the Scotch Whiskey Experience. It just happened to be right down the road from the Castle. We did not have to walk far for the Willy Wonka tour of Scotch whiskey. At the end of the tour is the whiskey tasting. Their Silver package includes the tasting of one Scotch whiskey. The Gold package includes the sampling of five different Scotch whisky’s. We opted for the Gold package. After our experience at the Jameson Whiskey Distillery, we knew we wanted to sample more than just one scotch whiskey.
The start of the tour was an automated ride through the whiskey making and distilling process. A swirling, bubbling barrel ride through a replica distillery as you become part of the whisky making process. Along the way you’ll hear the stories behind this magical craft, with expert tour guides and whisky advisors with you every sip of the way. We had learned the process at the Jameson Distillery in Ireland. The only difference is Scotch whiskey is distilled twice instead of the three times by Jameson standards. In addition, there are four regions in Scotland that produce signature Scotch whiskey. They are Speyside, Islay, Lowland, and Highland.
After our ride through the learning experience, we were then seated with others to learn the differences between the four regions. From the land they grow the ingredients in to the different casks used to give the Scotch whiskey its unique taste and aroma from each region. One can equate the knowledge of fine whiskey to the knowledge of fine wines. It was here we each had to pick region we wanted to taste a sample from. Gina and I both chose the Islay (pronounced eye-la) region for its smokey flavor and aroma. From there we moved on to a room containing the world’s largest collection of Scotch whiskey. Over 3,000 bottles lined countless shelves to showcase what one man in Brazil had collected, then donated to the Scotch Whiskey Experience.
While being surrounded by endless bottle of Scotch whiskey, we learned the correct method for tasting and sampling Scotch whiskey. Once again, a process that could remind one of wine tasting. It was fun to Learn these valuable techniques while being surrounded by Scotch whiskey. It made the anticipation of tasting all those fine batches of Scotch whiskey worthwhile. While everyone was learning the intricacies of sampling, I was already done with my Scotch whiskey sample. I could not wait. I wanted to taste that smooth, smokey flavor. By the time we arrived at the bar, my mouth was watering for more.
We received a great selection of single malt Scotch whiskey’s to sample. Five samples with tasting notes to let us know what we were truly tasting. Gina and I were feeling pretty good by the time we finished the tour. A few more samples and I would be sampling the floor. Just kidding. I have said this before, with the end of any tour comes the gift shop. Bottles of every size representing every region lined the store shelves. We picked up some sample Bowmore bottles from the Islay region to bring home and try. We now have a better appreciation for Scotch whiskey, more importantly, whiskey in general.
As the day was wearing on we started walking down the Royal Mile. The Royal Mile is the name given to a succession of streets forming the main thoroughfare of the Old Town of the city of Edinburgh in Scotland. The name was first used in W M Gilbert’s Edinburgh in the Nineteenth Century (1901), and was further popularised as the title of a guidebook, published in 1920.
The thoroughfare, as the name suggests, is approximately one Scots mile long and runs downhill between two significant locations in the history of Scotland, namely Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace. The streets which make up the Royal Mile are (west to east) Castlehill, the Lawnmarket, the High Street, the Canongate and Abbey Strand. The Royal Mile is the busiest tourist street in the Old Town, rivalled only by Princes Street in the New Town. There was fewer shopping along the Royal Mile route. That did not stop us from stopping in one store to get kilted.
Gina and I had been seeing deals on kilts and accessories. WE decided one this one shop along the Royal Mile for their designs and service. The young gentleman had explained the pieces and what came in the set. After measuring and deciding, there was a good banter going back and forth. He had spent time at University of Mississippi a few years back and enjoyed his time here in the US. We then finished discussing our day thus far. When Gina and I talked in detail about the whiskey experience, he shared the appreciation for a great Scotch whiskey. We asked for some Scotch recommendations and he came up with Laphroaig, Dalwhinnie, Bowmore, and a few others.
As we said good-bye we asked where would be a good place to sample some good Scotch Whiskey and where to go for dinner. We wanted to get some really good local recommendations on where locals go to unwind. Two spots he talked in detail about seemed to be the running favorites. For dinner, we chose the Auld Hundred and after dinner we would head to the Black Cat for some Scotch Whiskey. After we left, we noticed we had purchased one of his Scotch recommendations at the Whiskey experience before. We knew we were already on the right path. The day provided for great conversation back to the hotel.
After dropping off our various daily plunder we made for Rose Street as that was a main walking thoroughfare for restaurants and pubs. The Auld Hundred is a great old pub. Downstairs is the main bar with some tables. Up a narrow winding staircase is the main dining room. More tables and booths along with the main kitchen was upstairs. They pride themselves in providing traditional Scottish hospitality and serving fantastic traditional pub food.
We started off with a couple Guinness and matched crayfish cocktail starters. Not too many restaurants in New Jersey or New York serve crayfish otherwise called crawfish or craw daddies. I love the texture of crayfish after my great experience with them ion Alabama. Great way to start the meal. After that treat came the Auld Hundred Steak Pie. Their special recipe steak topped with puff pastry served with vegetables and lightly grilled potatoes. I love puff pastry with anything. It reminded me of a beef stew pie. Very tender and the sauce just made a great compliment to the beef.
After those dishes there was still room for dessert. Their daily special for dessert was giving me the Jedi mind trick. I knew I wanted it, it was calling to me. Their special was a homemade rhubarb crumble served with custard. The woman who served it had made the deserts and also seated us when we came in. It was her crumble she had made. I was savoring every bite of this delectable crumble. I love desserts of this nature. the crumble mixed with the fresh, hot custard blended together just right. The tart of the rhubarb combined in it all made for a memorable meal. Apparently, the couple opposite of us thought the same as the gentleman also ordered the rhubarb crumble. He and I had ordered the final two servings.
The rhubarb crumble started a conversation between all of us. That is what these pubs are for, casual conversation with those around you. As we were talking, a quartet of ladies sat down next to us. After their day of shopping they needed a break like the rest of us. What caught my attention about them was one of the ladies ordered a Guinness with a straw.
Let me repeat that.
She ordered a Guinness, with a straw.
Take a second for that to seep in. After being in Ireland, savoring my first Guinness and learning the correct pour of a finely crafted Guinness I considered this blasphemy. For some odd reason, a small demographic of females do enjoy their brew with a straw. When I was a server at Applebee’s, two ladies always had their Coors Light with straws. Sad, but true. To each their own.
While leaving the Auld Hundred, I could not stop taking about the rhubarb crumble. It brought up my top desserts I have had in the past. Anytime you mix a homemade crust with fresh berries you can never go wrong. A few years back, Gina worked a few doors down from a trained French pastry chef. Gina told her the items I love in crust and her friend said she had the perfect item and to come back later. Gina brought home a perfectly sized fresh berry tart about two inches high and 12 inches wide. Nothing but fresh pie crust and berries. I was Homer Simpson at that point.
Back to Scotland and leaving the Auld Hundred. A couple blocks down was the Black Cat. An establishment where even James Dean would be comfortable. I place to hang, talk, enough good rock music and one of the best selections of Scotch in Edinburgh according to reviews on Foursquare. We ordered a couple Dalwhinnie glasses for each of us. That signature Islay taste was there. A great smooth flavor with smokey taste. I nice sipping Scotch. If we had more time, we could have set up at one of their outside tables for a couple of hours, sipping different Scotch whiskey’s. It capped off the end to a truly memorable day in Scotland.
We were really beat from all the walking we did. Easy decision to go back to the hotel after that. The next day would be our last full day in Scotland. We had no big plan. We decided to spend it looking around Old Town Edinburgh. We wanted to explore the other side of Princes Street as the older section intrigued us more. I was counting on a good night sleep after all the walking we just did. I was pushing myself each day there at the end. Maximizing our time walking, seeing everything we could each day was taking its toll. Gina was looking forward to going home soon for rest.
The following day we headed back downstairs to The Huxley for breakfast. I decided to be daring and ordered a haggis and fried egg sandwich. It was a little gooey from the egg, but it was a great sandwich. The haggis was fresh and tasted world’s apart from what I had in the United States. This was what haggis is supposed to taste like. Another great breakfast down and off we went. No slated destination. Just a chance to walk around the Old Town and see what we come across.
Walk we did. We went where our feet would take us. A few times we turned around and changed direction. When we finally chose the right path we found ourselves at the National Museum of Scotland. Admission is free so it was an easy decision to explore the museum. Five levels covering Scotland, World Cultures, Science and Technology, and Art & Design. Exhibits from every part of the globe. A great cross section of exhibits kept it interesting. From Scotland’s history to the advancement of the world and world cultures, the museum showcased it all.
Their Grand Gallery is a magnificent, public space at the heart of the Victorian building with its elegant cast-iron and glass roof, that displays large-scale objects. Art, statues, and even a helicopter or two can be seen lining the Grand Gallery. It is hard to ignore the space and relics seen around this hall. Hawthornden Court starts a journey of discovery through the Scottish collections, displayed over five floors of dramatic contemporary architecture. On the first floor in the Court is the F1 racing car belonging to Jackie Stewart OBE.
Some of the objects highlighted there are rare and precious, others are made significant by the people who once owned them or the journeys they have made. Some are old and mysterious, others were made recently, specially for their collection. But all have a story to tell. Everyone walks away from one that is their favorite. I enjoyed the Tibetan Prayer wheels. Many will remember the scene from the movie “The Golden Child” with Eddie Murphy when he raps while spinning one of them. I said my own prayers as I spun the wheels.
We took our time walking through each level grasping parts of history that we do not study in our History classes in school. Dolly, the first cloned mammal, was on display. Everyone remembers the sheep who was cloned. Many items from the Kingdom of the Scots was on display. Dinosaurs, Egyptian coffins, cars, weaponry, rockets, and so much more that tell a story about world history is displayed for everyone to see and experience. Many hands on exhibits so kids can learn while they interact with certain exhibits. If I go into detail about everything we saw in the museum, you would stop reading. Kidding. Too much to go into.
It would take me too long to look at every exhibit and read it. With my vision, the museum would close before I had a chance to read everything that I viewed. I relied on Gina to read a lot of what we saw. One of the disadvantages in having central vision loss is being able to keep pace with others in a museum, or around anything that needs to be read for that matter. I would write more for you here if I was able to read more there. Glad I still have a great memory to at least share with you all the highlights that I experienced.
After all the walking in the museum we needed a little break. A little place to have a drink, relax, and recharge the batteries. Both our batteries and the electronic devices. As it turned out, we came across The Elephant House. Opened in 1995, The Elephant House has established itself as one of the best tea and coffee houses in Edinburgh. Made famous as the place of inspiration to writers such as J.K. Rowling, who sat writing much of her early novels in the back room overlooking Edinburgh Castle. Ian Rankin, author of the bestselling Rebus novels, and Alexander McCall-Smith, author of The No.1 Ladies’ Detective Agency and other series of novels, have also frequented The Elephant House, as well as many others throughout the years.
Seats are not easy to come by in The Elephant House. We found one right in the back. They serve a great cup of coffee and great pastries there. A visit is in order if you need a break from daily action in Old Town Edinburgh. Always better to have a barista make your coffee rather than pressing a button on a pot made thirty minutes ago. After a brief rest we were deciding on which way to walk back to Princes Street. We decided to walk along the other side of Edinburgh Castle that was the furthest from the streets and bridges that lead to Princes Street.
Not too much lined the route we were walking down. A few buildings to the left and that was about it. The path we walked was at the base of the castle. Looking straight up gave us a perspective attacking foes saw as they decided which area of the structure was the best to attack. From our vantage point, they would have needed ropes and lessons in rock climbing if they planned on scaling what seemed to be a mountain leading up to the castle walls. Pictures do not do the castle justice. The views we had of the castle compared to what we saw the day before really magnified the scope of how awesome the structure really is.
As we came around the path it led us to West Princes Street Gardens. A wonderful open area with lush lawns, flowers, trees, and more foliage than even Central Park can muster on its best day. Many lined the benches, relaxing along the lawn, while others strolled through the park. It was very quiet. Not much talking going on by anyone, just a lot of relaxing and quiet to take in the beauty the park possesses. We walked a little slower just to be able to take it all in.
The park has served the city of Edinburgh since it’s creation in 1770s and later the 1829s following the long draining of the Nor Loch and the creation of the New Town. The Nor Loch was a large loch on the north side of the town, making expansion northwards difficult. It was heavily polluted from centuries of sewage draining downhill from the Old Town. The gardens run along the south side of Princes Street and are divided by The Mound. East Princes Street Gardens run from The Mound to Waverley Bridge, and cover 8.5 acres. The larger West Princes Street Gardens cover 29 acres.
We did a little shopping and stopped in at Boots, a UK Pharmacy chain similar to Walgreens (They own 45% of the parent company). They focus on health and beauty aids, make up, cold beverages of many varieties, hair care, skin care, baby care, and so much more. Gina loved their selection of Rimmel make up. She found items in Scotland and London one can not find here in America. We even found a body lotion by Nivea that you apply in the shower. Just apply, rinse, towel dry off. It is that simple men! We hope Nivea releases the product here in the US as we brought home only one bottle.
We were starting to get a little sluggish. It had been a while since we had food of substance. We headed for Rose Street. Many restaurants to choose from, but which one. A consistent item on each menu here was another seafood chowder. This one though was prepared with a white cream base compared to the red chowder in Ireland. We stopped to view the menu at the Mussel Inn which has locations in both Edinburgh and Glasgow. They had a lunch special that included their creamy seafood chowder, a side order of chips, and either a soda or beer for about 8 Euros each. Not a bad deal to get some seafood chowder and a beer with the meal.
A few years back, I met author and Lynda.com contributor Anthony Artis. At the time, he was an adjunct professor at Tisch NYU and I read his book on proper documentary filming and I needed advice. We met for breakfast at a great place in Greenwich Village called Rock Around The Clock. They served up a fantastic huevos rancheros along with a bottle of Heineken. A meal always seems to look better when a beer is a part of the package, including breakfast. Unfortunately, Rock Around The Clock is no longer around.
The chowder in Scotland has more fresh fish and less seafood than the one I had in Ireland. I could barely talk the chowder was that good. Along with the piece of crusty bread they give you it is a satisfying meal. The chips just happened to be a welcome addition. The chowder was not enough. A few more bowls of it would have sufficed. Many rave about the seafood chowder at the Mussel Inn and now I know why. I would revisit and try more there in future visits.
By the time we left we both just wanted to go back to the hotel and relax. The next day was our flight back to the United States. We had to make sure everything was packed right. All the items we bought, dirty clothes, bottles of Scotch, everything. We had an early flight so we really needed to get some rest. I was not too sure how much sleep I would get on the plane, I wanted to be sure I got some this night. Between being on my iPad and watching TV reruns it was not easy falling asleep. Gina was out like a light while I was awake.
By the time I was sleeping like a baby it was time to wake up. Just enough time to grab a shower, get dressed, and bring everything downstairs to our awaiting ride to the airport. There was a beautiful sunrise coming up over New Town Edinburgh. Made me wish I had been awake to view more during our trip. I am not a morning person, but I wish I had pushed myself to see more of what joy the sunrise has to offer.
Once at the airport there was only one item on my mind. Coffee. Our terminal had some pretty decent places to eat. There was a Nero cafe where Gina and I sat down for coffee and breakfast sandwiches. Love the baristas at Nero. Also in the terminal was a Yo! Sushi. It was too early for it to be open but a great place to have in the airport. Then you had your typical duty free stores and newsstands for other items. Once again, happy for free airport wi-fi. Makes waiting for the plane a lot easier.
As time passed the terminal outside the gate was filling up. The flight was packed. Since we were seated in Economy Plus we boarded right after First Class. Extra leg room in Economy Plus which made the flight home tolerable. I took the window seat as I really wanted to get a little sleep on the way home. We picked up five hours on the plane ride home. I did not want an experience similar to the one I had flying out to England, getting no sleep and being sluggish for the day.
I was able to sleep more than half way through the trip. Which left about three hours to sit and entertain myself. Since the in flight movies were free, I decided to watch Argo. Great film. Alan Arkin, John Goodman, and Ben Affleck had great chemistry together. Very enjoyable to watch and a must see. By the time the movie was over we had less than an hour until landing in Newark. Not much to do at this point but to ride out the rest of the flight. Gina and I wanted to make sure everything was packed back into our carry on luggage to get off the plane as quick as possible.
By the time Gina and I were off the plane in Newark we could not wait to grab our luggage and head for home. Worn out from the plane ride and two weeks of constant motion can take a toll on a person. To be honest, in every hotel we stayed in I did not get the best night;s sleep. I was awake a lot, tossing and turning. I was glad to be home, in my own bed, with my own pillows. Hotels need firmer pillows, not down filled ones that provide no head or neck support. That is a big key to a good night of sleep.
The time spent in England, Ireland, and Scotland was a memorable one for sure. I can vividly remember each day of our trip. It was one for the Levy history books. I came home a different person. Having a better sense of self and a new focus on life. There is so much more I could write about, but not enough time to discuss everything in detail. I needed to get some summaries done first so I can focus on those points of interest that deserve more scope.
I have always been a proponent for stepping outside one’s comfort zone. The proverbial box so to speak. For the further you travel outside that zone, the more you know about who you are. Travel is meant to be fun and try new things, go new places. Your life is your own television show. Create fresh, new episodes with each new destination or it can be filled with repeats of the same place, over and over again. Whichever one makes you happy, then have fun and enjoy. For myself, the world is here to be sampled, one country at a time.
Next Saturday August 3rd, I will be running in the Warrior Dash at Lewis Morris Memorial Park in Morristown, NJ. Will have some info to come before and after the race. If you made it this far, thank you for taking the ride with me through England, Ireland, and Scotland. I hope you enjoyed the written ride and it has you craving more. More rides to share in over the next few months.
When you think about deciding on where to travel next, remember one of my favorite quotes from Robert Frost.
“Two roads diverged in a wood and I, I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all of the difference.”